Façade insulation is an investment not for one season, but for the next 20–30 years. That’s why any mistake at the installation stage shows up very quickly: cracks, cold spots, damp corners, delamination. Below we break down the most common mistakes in “wet façade” systems and how to avoid them, so your walls stay warm and stable for decades.
Mistake no. 1. Thermal bridges between insulation boards
Where the problem is:
- open gaps between polystyrene or mineral wool boards;
- joints installed “in a cross” instead of staggered;
- boards not fully bonded to the substrate;
- uninsulated zones: lintels, beams, metal elements, dowels without thermal breaks.
Consequences:
- freezing of corners and wall sections;
- condensation points and mould inside;
- higher heating bills even with an “insulated” façade.
How to do it right:
- cut and install boards with minimal gaps, “tight lock”;
- always use staggered joints, like brickwork;
- gaps up to 3–4 mm should be filled with PU foam, not with adhesive;
- use thermal-break dowels and carefully detail all nodes where thermal bridges can appear.
Mistake no. 2. Poor substrate preparation
What’s done wrong:
- insulation is glued on old, flaking render;
- dust, oil stains and efflorescence are not removed;
- the substrate is damp, cracked, with hollows and cavities.
Result:
- after 1–3 seasons you get “bubbles”, delamination and cracks;
- the final finish (including tile cladding) peels off together with the adhesive.
How to do it right:
- completely remove any weak layers and open and repair cracks;
- correct major uneven areas with render or adhesive;
- prime the substrate with deep-penetrating primer or beton-contact, depending on the surface type;
- before bonding insulation, the wall must be dry and solid.
Mistake no. 3. Wrong adhesive and incorrect consistency
Frequent errors:
- using “interior” adhesive without frost resistance on exteriors;
- changing the water–powder ratio so the mix is too runny or too stiff;
- ignoring maturation time and working immediately after mixing.
Consequences:
- weak adhesion to substrate and insulation;
- boards can detach during the first freeze–thaw cycles;
- cracks appear in the reinforced basecoat.
How to do it right:
- use a façade adhesive with frost resistance, compatible with the chosen insulation;
- follow the manufacturer’s instructions exactly, including maturation time;
- for bonding boards, the adhesive should be a bit more plastic, and for the basecoat – like thick cream.
Mistake no. 4. Ignoring “wet façade” system technology
What often gets skipped:
- no reinforcing mesh, or using interior mesh instead of façade mesh;
- mesh placed directly on the insulation instead of being fully embedded in adhesive;
- overlaps of mesh strips are too small (under 10 cm);
- no corner profiles on edges and window reveals.
Result:
- a network of microcracks, chipped corners, swollen areas;
- the final finish (render or cladding) mirrors all these defects.
How to do it right:
- use alkali-resistant façade mesh with density min. 145 g/m²;
- first apply the basecoat, then embed the mesh into the wet adhesive;
- ensure mesh overlaps of at least 10 cm;
- reinforce corners and reveals with special corner profiles with mesh.
Mistake no. 5. Installation in unsuitable weather conditions
What often happens:
- work is done at temperatures below +5 °C or with night frost;
- installation in direct sun and strong wind, without protective netting;
- work continues in rain or dense fog.
Consequences:
- adhesives never reach their designed strength;
- microcracks and delamination appear;
- the service life of the whole system is drastically reduced.
How to do it right:
- follow the temperature range given by the manufacturer (usually +5…+25 °C);
- protect scaffolding with façade netting;
- in very hot weather, slightly dampen the substrate and avoid work during peak sun;
- do not work in rain or at high humidity.
Mistake no. 6. Ignoring the plinth, reveals and junctions
Where problems appear:
- no starter profile at plinth level – insulation “floats” in the air;
- splash zone with water, snow and salt is not protected;
- roof, balcony and sheet-metal junctions are not sealed properly.
Consequences:
- the system is washed out from the bottom up; render and cladding at plinth level degrade;
- water gets behind the insulation, mould appears in corners and near the ceiling.
How to do it right:
- start the system from a rigid metal starter profile;
- reinforce the plinth and use finishes with higher resistance to moisture and de-icing salts;
- detail all junctions carefully (tapes, sealants, drip profiles, properly sized flashings and sills).
How KORDEKO helps you avoid these mistakes
At KORDEKO we treat insulation and cladding as one integrated system, not as two separate jobs.
We:
- help you choose the optimal insulation type (polystyrene or mineral wool) for your building;
- use tested adhesives and reinforcing materials for wet façade systems;
- protect the insulation with KORDEKO flexible tiles based on PletaFlex technology – light, elastic and durable;
- pay special attention to the plinth, corners, reveals and joints to eliminate thermal bridges and water ingress.
The result is not just a warmer house, but a complete façade system that:
- reduces heating and cooling costs;
- does not crack or peel;
- keeps a clean appearance and stable colour for many years.
KORDEKO Contacts
📱 Phone: +37368140333
🌐 Website: www.kordeko.com
📧 Email: kordeko.md@gmail.com